akris mines the work of architect sou fujimoto for ss 2016
2015-10-15 17:15
Akris' S/S 2016 Paris show debuted a design dream team of architecture-obsessed Akris creative director Albert Kriemler and Japanese architect Sou Fujimoto
艾伯特·克里姆勒是时尚界最热衷于建筑的设计师。几乎所有他为瑞士品牌阿克里斯的展览都闪耀着建筑精灵的光芒,他的许多藏品都归功于建筑师们自己的灵感。
在Akris最近的S/S 2016巴黎展上,Kriemler不仅与日本建筑师窦藤本(Sou Fujimoto)通灵,而且还与之合作。藤本最著名的作品-从蛇形亭到他的N宫和老岛馆-都被贴在Kriemler的情绪板上。这些想法中有许多是通过实际的织物开发,甚至在仿照House N的真人大小的展览集中重新创建的。
墙纸*:喔,你和艾伯特是怎么联系的?藤本:我们是通过一个共同的朋友,摄影师伊万·巴恩认识的。然后我们就随便谈了一下我的建筑概念。他来日本参观我的一些项目。于是,他渐渐地试图把我的建筑思想重新诠释成他的时尚思维。
艾伯特,你是怎么做到的?Albert Kriemler:Sou建筑的伟大之处在于,你不仅可以看到伟大的、意想不到的建筑,而且你能感受到它。当我参观直岛馆时,我永远不会忘记那一刻。它看起来像钻石,像宝石一样,因此启发了收藏。藤本的音乐之林——他为布达佩斯音乐厅所赢得的比赛——启发了一个颈缝,而且是一个Brigee盎格莱斯。还有两个房子,最后的礼服,我从他自己的描述中得到的——他说:“有趣的是,房子是银色的,它们反映了自然和事物。”所以我想让衣服反映出这种效果。
这是你第一次流行吗?藤本:几年前我为萨凯设计了一家商店。但从来没有真正的时尚合作。从来没有。这很令人兴奋,因为我不是一个好时尚的人。
你今天穿什么?藤本:宫崎骏。
那你就成了时尚人士了!藤本:好的,…[笑]最后,通过与艾伯特的谈话,我意识到时尚和建筑之间有很强的相似性。它们都在人体和世界之间创造了某种东西。透明度、半透明或不透明-以前,我只是在建筑尺度上思考这些主题。这打开了进入另一个领域的大门。
跟我们说说演出现场?藤本:主题是N家,我的私人住宅之一。他想要用这房子,所以我把图纸寄给他,他重新整理了一下,以适应展览的空间。我今天终于看到它和树一起结束了,它太好了。阿尔伯特·克里姆勒:我对它在这里的位置感到非常兴奋。今晚来看我们节目的每一个人都走过这座房子,这对我来说真的很重要。
看来艾伯特对建筑很了解.。藤本:他很擅长看建筑。我把我的书给了他,他读了所有的课文。这是一本很大的书。现在,他比我更了解我的建筑!
'We met through a mutual friend, the photographer Iwan Baan,' explains the architect backstage. 'Then we just had a casual talk really about my architecture concept. He came to Japan to visit some of my projects. Then gradually he tried to reinterpret my architectural thinking into his fashion thinking'
Nearly all of Kriemler's shows glow with an architectural elan and many of his collections owe their inspiration to architects themselves
Here, Kriemler not just channelled, but actually collaborated on a recreated life-sized show set modeled after House N
Fujimoto’s most famous works – from the Serpentine Pavilion to his House N and Naoshima Pavilion – were all plastered on Kriemler’s mood board backstage
'Through the conversations with Albert, I realised the strong similarity between fashion and architecture', says Fujimoto of the experience
Many of these ideas made their way into actual fabric development
'They both create something between the human body and the world,' adds Fujimoto. 'Transparency, translucence or opaqueness – previously, I was only thinking of these themes on an architectural scale. So this opened the door to another realm'
'He is quite good at seeing architecture,' contines Fujimoto of the fashion designer. 'I gave him my book and he read all of the text. And it’s a big book. Now, he knows more about my architecture than I do!'
'What’s so great about Sou’s architecture is that you don’t only look at great, unexpected architecture but that you actually feel it,' says Kriemler. 'When I visited the Naoshima Pavilion, I’ll never forget that moment. It looked to me like a diamond, like a jewel so that inspired the collection'
The set's tranquil greenery also took over the collection's prints
'I designed a shop for Sacai a few years ago,' adds Fujimoto. 'But never a real fashion collaboration. It is quite exciting because I am not a good fashion guy'
'The finale dresses, I took from his own description – he said, "It’s funny the houses are silver covered and they had mirrored the nature and things." So I wanted the dresses to mirror that effect,' says Kriemler
keywords:Sou Fujimoto, Akris
关键词:藤本,秋明
艾伯特·克里姆勒是时尚界最热衷于建筑的设计师。几乎所有他为瑞士品牌阿克里斯的展览都闪耀着建筑精灵的光芒,他的许多藏品都归功于建筑师们自己的灵感。阿克里斯的情况就是这样.。
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