A new Paris exhibition paints a stunning portrait of fashion designer Jeanne Lanvin, framing her creations - upwards of 100 examples - in the context of her life (1867-1946)

兰文是一家名垂青史的时装公司，只要一提到它的名字就能引起人们的赞扬。但这个名字的创始人珍妮·兰文，从来没有像可可·香奈儿，甚至埃尔莎·希亚帕雷利那样被拍成传奇。

一个新的展览在万国宫加利埃拉描绘了一个惊人的肖像设计师，框架她的创作-超过100个例子-与她的生活背景(1867-1946)。博物馆总馆长奥利维尔·赛拉德(OlivierSaillard)自2001年以来一直与兰文馆长阿尔伯·埃尔巴兹(Alber Elbaz)密切合作。他们一起带领游客完成了一段美丽的故事。70岁时，这位设计师的照片用双手遮住了她的脸，最后是一件深蓝色塔夫绸雕塑晚礼服，可以追溯到二战结束后。

例如，在1924年，她的女儿玛格丽特·玛格丽特·兰文(Lanvin)和她的女儿玛格丽特·玛格丽特(Lanvin)将成为该公司的标志——这就是要意识到品牌是个人经历的总和。
即使是在1921年成为正式公司色彩的标志性的蓝色也有一个故事。
在《目录》中找到的文本中，吉拉德注意到兰文的女性同时代的分化：“兰文是第一个为生活方式提供全面思考的地方。”

这场名为“珍妮·兰文”(Jeanne Lanvin)的展览似乎突显了这一焦点，这是巴黎首场此类展览-如果你认为这家法国时装店仍在运营中，它的历史悠久，这似乎更令人惊讶。也许不足为奇的是，几乎没有提到现在的情况。

相反，游客们会窥视黑色所勾勒出的别致的镜子；不管是故意的还是非故意的，它们都唤起了现在与兰文美学密不可分的怪诞。80年前的服装显得非常现代，装饰性的表达明智，女性的剪影重新定义了轻松。但兰文也深受平面影响和旅行的影响，她的黄金岁月恰逢“装饰艺术”(Art Deco)的鼎盛时期(事实上，她的连衣裙经常在巴黎的国际展览上亮相-可以说，这是一个远比沙龙展示更令人印象深刻的平台)。

就赛拉德而言，他确实承认这两位天才之间的直接关系，并指出他们有着“谨慎的品味”。同样，Albaz也把这次回顾展称为“耳语展”。当你观察到这些令人印象深刻的细节经过几十年的演变的微妙之处时，你就能准确地理解他的意思。

Olivier Saillard, the museum's general curator worked closely with Alber Elbaz, Lanvin's director par excellence since 2001

Even the signature blue, which became the official company colour in 1921, comes with a story. Saillard, in a text found in the catalogue, notes Lanvin's point of differentiation from her female contemporaries: 'Lanvin was the first to give overall thought to lifestyle'

To see the maison's codes take shape - the inclusion, for instance, of the gilded dolls depicting Lanvin with her daughter Marguerite that would become the house logo in 1924 - is to realise how the brand is the sum total of personal stories

The show, simply titled 'Jeanne Lanvin' as if underscoring the focus, is the first of its kind in Paris - which seems even more surprising when you consider that the French fashion house holds the distinction of being oldest still in operation. Perhaps unsurprisingly, there is little mention of the present years

Instead, visitors peer into chic mirrored vitrines outlined in black; deliberate or not, they evoke the grosgrain that is now inextricably linked to the Lanvin aesthetic

Saillard, for his part, does acknowledge the through-line between both talents, pointing out that they share a 'taste for discretion'

Dresses from 80 years back appear remarkably contemporary, with ornamentation expressed judiciously and feminine silhouettes redefined with soigné ease

But Lanvin was also highly influenced by graphic impact and travel and her prime years coincided with a high period in Art Deco - in fact, her dresses often debuted at the international exhibitions in Paris, arguably a far more impressive platform than a salon presentation

Albaz has referred to the retrospective as a 'whispering exhibition'

And as you observe the subtlety of such impressive detailing evolve over several decades, you understand precisely what he means

'Jeanne Lanvin' runs until 23 August, 2015, and certainly casts the designer in the same legendary light as is shone on the likes of Coco Chanel or even Elsa Schiaparelli

keywords:Jeanne Lanvin, Lanvin, Alber Elbaz, Palais Galliera, Olivier Saillard

关键词：Jeanne Lanvin，Lanvin，Alber Elbaz，Palais Galliera，Olivier Saillard