women fashion power at londons design museum explores the link between clothing and success
2014-10-29 11:41
Installation view at 'Women Fashion Power', currently on show at the Design Museum in London. Photography: Mirren Rosie
几年前,希拉里·克林顿(Hillary Clinton)在回答记者询问她对时尚的偏好时说:“如果我是个男人,你会问我这个问题吗?”当然,这位记者的回答是防御性的,但克林顿的反应背后的原因远比表面看起来更深刻、更有趣。如今,在设计博物馆展出的“女性时尚力量”(NotMultipleOptions)(“不是一种多重选择”,标题的“站立第一”)用服装展示来审视这种紧张关系,这些服装帮助塑造了多年来强健成功的女性的身份。
不言而喻,女性时装在历史上比男性具有更强烈的文化影响:紧身衣、长裤和剪影随着时间的推移而进化。过去,女性被限制在最具限制性的服装中,而最近的餐桌似乎已经变了。
今天,女性的时尚充满了文化、社会和艺术的意义-比男装更有本质意义。它驱动强大的个性,并直接贡献给他们的身份。联合策划展览的时尚记者科林·麦克道尔(ColinMcDowell)说,这次展览很大程度上是关于服装的现实。他说,这场展览的目的不是定义一场运动,而是展示“聪明的女性是如何从时尚中获取她们所需要的”。
展览遵循两个不同的主题,播放的节目标题。在一端,名为“权力与时尚”和“时尚与女性”的房间展示了从伊芙到今天的女性服装的视觉历史,并附有标志性的服装、照片和历史文件。第三间也是最后一间名为“女人与权力”的房间关闭了这个圈,里面有26位当代女性和她们选择的代表她们的衣服。
不同的群体包括政治、文化、娱乐和社会领域的妇女,从歌手皮到巴黎市长安妮·伊达尔戈,从艺术策展人朱莉娅·佩顿-琼斯到建筑师扎哈·哈德曼。
展出的服装来自他们的个人服装,对于在他们对世界的影响中发挥了重要作用。
哈迪德也帮助塑造了节目本身。她的室内设计-连同卢西安罗伯茨的图形-支持麦克道尔和设计博物馆馆长唐娜Loveday的工作。虽然哈迪德的结构在几乎不引人注意的空间划分中起着关键作用,但罗伯茨的动态图形在光、色和Perspex的呼喊中没有问题。展览的标题激励罗伯茨在一个移动的装置中将“女人”、“时尚”和“权力”这三个关键词交叉在一起。这是对表演中的力量的恰当庆祝。
The exhibition examines the garments that have helped shape the identities of strong, successful women over the ages. Photography: Mirren Rosie
The show follows two divergent themes, playing on the show's title. At one end, rooms named 'Power and Fashion' and 'Fashion and Women' display a visual history of women's clothing from Eve to the present day, with iconic garments, photographs and historical documents. Photography: Mirren Rosie
The third and final room, called 'Women and Power', closes the circle, featuring 26 contemporary women and the clothes they've chosen to represent them. Photography: Mirren Rosie
Contributions from Julia Peyton-Jones, Kirsty Wark, Skin and Zaha Hadid, who was also responsible for the exhibition design. Photography: Mirren Rosie
Graphics, meanwhile, come courtesy of design studio LucienneRoberts+. The exhibition's title inspired Roberts to intersect the three key words, 'women', 'fashion' and 'power', in a moving installation. Photography: Richard Hubert Smith
At the entrance to the exhibition is an illustration by Ben Wiseman depicting an Edwardian cyclist, a 1920s flapper, a working woman during World War II, a liberated 1960s woman in an Yves Saint Laurent 'Le Smoking' tuxedo suit and a power-suited woman of the 1980s. Photography: Richard Hubert Smith
The show includes an installation of vast, colourful screens with images of statement fashion. Photography: Mirren Rosie
Jane Fonda and Twiggy make power poses in the 'Women and Fashion' room. Photography: Mirren Rosie
Vivienne Westwood contributed some seminal pieces from her past collections including her 'God Save the Queen' t-shirt (left) from 1977. Photography: Richard Hubert Smith
A Westwood dress with her 'Climate Revolution' t-shirt from S/S 2013. Photography: Mirren Rosie
A trio of eye-catching hats on display at 'Women Fashion Power'. Photography: Mirren Rosie
Behind a Perspex screen is an example of affordable fashion from the 1960s, and a photograph from Woodstock. Photography: Richard Hubert Smith
keywords:fashion, design museum, colin mcdowell, lucienne roberts, zaha hadid
关键词:时尚,设计博物馆,科林·麦克道尔,卢西安·罗伯茨,扎哈·哈迪德
几年前,希拉里·克林顿(Hillary Clinton)在回答记者询问她对时尚的偏好时说:“如果我是个男人,你会问我这个问题吗?”当然,记者的回答是防御性的,但是克林顿的反应背后的原因有很多.
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