alta roma 2013 an editors diary from romes haute couture week
2013-02-01 14:31
Andrea Provvidenza hit the bullseye at Alta Roma 2013 with the first-ever presentation of coats by his label Lodental. Simple, beautiful updates on the original Loden coat of yesteryear, each one features a gloriously saturated colour. Photography: Elio Rosato - Allucinazione
罗马高级时装周可能不会像巴黎那样夸耀那些大设计师的名字,但罗马阿尔塔罗马人在高瓦时跑道上所缺乏的是,它获得了当地的魅力。为期五天的活动,由罗马上议院主席西尔维娅·芬迪(SilviaFendi)监督,其特色是历史悠久的罗马时装公司举办的时装秀,以及即将到来的意大利设计师们,他们正在寻找一个新的场地,以获得更然而,这一事件真正隐藏的宝石是芬迪有意向罗马艺术、文化和工匠的许多角落和缝隙敞开的大门。
例如,第一天,在Gente-罗马最奢华的多品牌商店-塞尔吉奥·赞邦(Sergio Zambon)-以及他为加利特津设计的春季系列-开始了一场文明的午间鸡尾酒。当晚些时候,安德里亚·普罗维登萨(AndreaProvvidenza)在他的标签上展示了一件令人惊讶的衣服,这让这个城市最酷的年轻女孩脱颖而出。当晚,普罗维登萨在该市最重要的当代艺术收藏家伊内斯·穆苏米·格雷科(Ines Musumeci Greco)的家中举行了一场家庭式的晚宴。
阿尔塔·罗马(Alta Roma)的情绪明显比其他时装周的氛围要轻松得多。有一次,年轻设计师卡特琳娜·加塔(Caterina Gatta)开着她的智能汽车在一条小街上按喇叭,载着我去卡梅隆·西尔弗(Cameron Silverer)在盖莱里娅·O(Galleria O)展出的几十年书。整个下午和晚上,记者们都可以在铺满鹅卵石的小街道上闲逛,参加人工智能(A.I.Arsanal Intelligence)项目。这是一家画廊,小型画廊举办了年轻的时装和配饰设计师的作品。
这种新旧交融就是罗马时尚的意义所在。组织者正确地揭示了一些最好的工匠,如著名的衬衫制造商皮耶罗阿尔贝泰利和定制西装制造商萨托里亚里彭斯。负责整个运作的是席尔瓦·芬迪,镇上的每一位设计师都认为他们的仙女教母。今年,芬迪利用她的全球影响力,为她有限的/无限的展览挑选了一些顶级国际设计师的红地毯礼服,并随后举行了一场喧闹、充满舞蹈的晚宴,完美地体现了罗马的旺盛精神。
The Lodental coats were displayed inside Rome's Santo Spirito church and accompanied by a video that projected streaming neon details onto a mannequin. Photography: Elio Rosato - Allucinazione
Click on the video to watch the Lodental presentation
Marco Giugliano and Nicolò Bologna are a young, Milan-based design team who brought their zany, print-tastic Marcobologna fashion label to Rome
The Gallery Apart in Via di Monserrato took part in the A.I. project, hosting handbags by Badura. Photography: Gianni Catani / L. Sorrentino
A metallic python and crocodile clutch by Badura. Photography: Gianni Catani / L. Sorrentino
Suede and exotic skin totes by Badura. Photography: Gianni Catani / L. Sorrentino
Alta Roma's bespoke tour took us on a journey into the workshops of some of the city's best artisans, like these gentlemen whipping up tailormade suits at Sartoria Ripens
Shirt master Piero Albertelli is a legend in Rome and still makes shirts for Valentino and Giancarlo Giammetti
Reams of fine fabrics used for Albertelli shirts
The last stop on the bespoke tour was Marini Calzature, who is still making fine leather shoes the old fashioned way
Marcello Mastroianni's shoe form at Marini Calzature
Valentino may have cornered the market on the colour blue (its A/W 2012 catwalk was awash with the shade), but another legendary designer Renato Balestra was all about hue too. This year, Alta Roma asked 11 designers to create a work in homage to Balestra, like Caterina Gatta (left) and Marco Grisolia TK (right)
The power set for Silvia Fendi's Limited/Unlimited Exhibit inside the Hadrian Temple was designed by Milan based Creative Director Susanna Cucco. The exhibit's theme of red carpet dressing was given a subtle nod with black platforms lined with red LEDs
Fendi called upon fashion's biggest names like Giorgio Armani and Donatella Versace as well as younger designers like Fausto Puglisi and Aquilano Rimondo to provide their most high-impact red carpet designs. Here are two of our favourites: Nino Lettieri's black tulle and embroidered georgette gown (Left) and Valentino's printed sheer lace dress
'There are eyes in the darkness' exhibition at Monitor gallery in Via Sforza Cesarini. Photography: Gianni Catani / L. Sorrentino
Clothing by Haans Nicholas Mott hangs in the Monitor gallery. Photography: Gianni Catani / L. Sorrentino
'Dalla macchina alla mano' exhibit at Galleria Marie-Laure Fleisch in Vicolo Sforza Cesarini. Photography: Gianni Catani / L. Sorrentino
Jewellery by Stefania Lucchetta featured at Galleria Marie-Laure Fleisch. Photography: Gianni Catani / L. Sorrentino
Haitan-born Rome based Stella Jean presented a collection that mashed-up African textiles, Navajo fur, and Andes jacquards
Clothes by Conny Groenewegen featured at Il Ponte Contemporanea gallery in Via di Panico. Photography: Gianni Catani / L. Sorrentino
The Alchemy N.7 installation at Il Ponte Contemporanea
La pelle del quotidiano' di Sissi at Spazio Innocenzo X in Via dell'Anima. Photography: Ariel Gabriel La Rosa / L.Sorrentino
The cocktail party at Spazio Innocenzo X. Photography: Ariel Gabriel La Rosa / L.Sorrentino
Designer Camilla Stipa launched her Kamo collection for the first time during last year's Alta Roma. The sandals are all handmade using Roman and Florentine artisans
keywords:Our diary from Alta Roma, 2013, Rome, haute couture, fashion week, President, Silvia Fendi
关键词:我们来自罗马阿尔塔的日记,2013年,罗马,高级时装,时装周,主席,西尔维亚·芬迪
罗马高级时装周可能不会像巴黎那样夸耀那些大设计师的名字,但罗马阿尔塔罗马人在高瓦时跑道上所缺乏的是,它获得了当地的魅力。为期五天的活动,由罗马上议院主席西尔维亚·芬迪(Silvia Fendi)监督,由.
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