葡萄牙:与场地共生
2025-08-11 11:52
当室内与建筑产生了呼应,回应了场所精神,人们在其中就更容易产生归属感。葡萄牙建筑师Álvaro Siza是场所精神的践行者,怀揣着对Alvaro Siza的崇拜与好奇,我踏上了这趟葡萄牙之旅。
When the interior echoes the building and responds to the spirit of the place, people are more likely to feel a sense of belonging within it. Portuguese architect Alvaro Siza is a practitioner of the spirit of place. With admiration and curiosity for Alvaro Siza, I embarked on this trip to Portugal.
Architects dont invent anything, they just transform reality.
There is no obvious boundary between architecture and nature
抵达葡萄牙的第一站是São Lourenço do Barrocal 庄园,午后时分,阳光透过树叶,斑驳地洒在厚重的石墙上,波光粼粼的影子在墙面轻轻晃动,让人瞬间卸下长途飞行的疲惫。
The first stop upon arrival in Portugal is the Sao Lourenco do Barrocal estate. In the afternoon, sunlight filters through the leaves and dappled on the thick stone walls. The shimmering shadows gently sway on the walls, instantly relieving the fatigue of the long flight.
葡萄藤上缠绕的紫藤花、远处广袤的橄榄树林、漫悠然踱步的马群,无不在诉说着建筑与自然的亲密关系。
The wisteria flowers entwined on the grapevines, the vast olive groves in the distance, and the horses strolling leisurely all tell of the intimate relationship between architecture and nature.
在这片跨越两个世纪的家族遗产地,设计师Eduardo Souto de Moura“修旧如旧”,保留了旧庄园的肌理,用当地石材、手工砖延续传统的地中海元素,让每栋小房子都像从石头和树林里生长出来一样,和谐并富有生命力。
In this family heritage site spanning two centuries, designer Eduardo Souto de Moura restored the old as it was, preserving the texture of the old manor. Using local stones and handcrafted bricks, he continued the traditional Mediterranean elements, making each small house seem to grow out of the stones and woods, harmonious and full of vitality.
屋内也保有这股质朴而真实的气息,柔软的埃及棉床单,亚麻质感的毯子,让人只想舒服的躺在这里。每一件家具、每一种材质,仿佛都带着阳光的余温和时光的痕迹。
The interior also retains this simple and genuine atmosphere. The soft Egyptian cotton bed sheets and the linen-textured blankets make one just want to lie here comfortably. Every piece of furniture and every material seems to carry the lingering warmth of the sun and the traces of time.
这片土地承载着历代所有者对家的理解,融合了现代化生活方式,并延续场地的故事,这种顺势而为的设计语言回应了设计的可持续性,设计不仅是对美的诠释,更要尊重建筑与环境的共生关系。
This land carries the understanding of home by generations of owners, integrates modern lifestyles, and continues the story of the site. This design language that follows the trend responds to the sustainability of design. Design is not only an interpretation of beauty but also respects the symbiotic relationship between architecture and the environment.
第二天,我们意外遭遇了葡萄牙全国范围的大停电,这成为了此次旅程中一段难忘的特殊经历。已经记不清有多久未曾体验过这种没有网络、没有手机、没有信息的宁静时刻。
The next day, we unexpectedly encountered a nationwide power outage in Portugal, which became an unforgettable and special experience during this trip. I cant remember how long it has been since I last experienced such a peaceful moment without the Internet, mobile phones or information.
暮色降临,大家围坐烛火边畅聊,天上繁星转苍穹,时间似乎在这一刻静止。我们的注意力更多地集中在当下对建筑、空间以及自然的感知,人与人之间的联系仿佛在这一刻恢复了最本真的状态。
As dusk fell, everyone sat around the candlelight chatting freely. The stars in the sky swirled across the heavens, and time seemed to stand still at this moment. Our attention is more focused on the current perception of architecture, space and nature, and the connection between people seems to have returned to its most genuine state at this moment.
这一刻我对设计的理解有了新的感悟:不依赖科技、不局限于物质,而是空间与环境、时间之间的和谐。
At this moment, I have gained a new understanding of design: it does not rely on technology, nor is it confined to material things, but rather the harmony between space, environment and time.
Seeing the world, knowing awe, and thus being humble.
这趟旅程最意外的惊喜与收获,莫过于结识了Manuel Aires Mateus。
The most unexpected surprise and gain of this journey was undoubtedly getting to know Manuel Aires Mateus.
在他设计的Casa na Terra,我直观地感受到了建筑与自然的完美融合。在连绵起伏的山丘中,唯一可见的建筑元素是一个巨大的圆顶,而室内房间则自然而然地与大自然紧密相连。
In the Casa na Terra he designed, I intuitively felt the perfect integration of architecture and nature. Among the undulating hills, the only visible architectural element is a huge dome, while the interior rooms are naturally closely connected to nature.
不由得让我回想起几年前在陕西看过的窑洞,那是一种嵌入地表的独特建筑,冬暖夏凉,既舒适又节能,完美顺应自然、回应场域。尽管跨越了地理与文化界限,却都传递着同一种理念:建筑不应主导场地,而应成为其和谐的一部分。
It cant help but remind me of the cave dwellings I saw in Shaanxi a few years ago. They are a unique type of architecture embedded in the ground, warm in winter and cool in summer, both comfortable and energy-efficient, perfectly adapting to nature and responding to the environment. Despite transcending geographical and cultural boundaries, they all convey the same idea: architecture should not dominate the site but should be a harmonious part of it.
这种和谐共生的设计理念,在现代社会显得尤为珍贵。Casa na Terra与陕西的窑洞,像是大自然与人类智慧的结晶,它们静静地诉说着一个关于和谐、尊重与共存的故事。在这些建筑中,我们看不到对自然的剥夺与破坏,相反,它们以一种温柔而坚定的方式,融入了周围的环境,成为了大自然不可分割的一部分。这种设计理念,不仅让我们重新审视了建筑与自然的关系,更提醒我们在未来的设计中,应更加注重与自然的和谐共生,让建筑成为大自然的延伸,而非其对立面。
This design concept of harmonious coexistence is particularly precious in modern society. Casa na Terra and the cave dwellings in Shaanxi are like the crystallization of the wisdom of nature and mankind. They quietly tell a story about harmony, respect and coexistence. Among these buildings, we do not see any deprivation or destruction of nature. On the contrary, they blend into the surrounding environment in a gentle yet firm way and become an inseparable part of nature. This design concept not only prompts us to re-examine the relationship between architecture and nature, but also reminds us that in future designs, we should pay more attention to the harmonious coexistence with nature, making architecture an extension of nature rather than its opposite.
此次游记撰稿人:张伟(MOOI TIMELESS 木已设计创始人)
隔天,我们拜访了他的工作室和私宅,再次被这位宝藏设计师深深吸引。他分享道:“我钟情于随着时间流逝,不断赋予空间新含义的方式。比如,如今我们更频繁地将餐厅用作工作区,而非仅用于晚餐;厨房则仿佛变身客厅,因为我们添置了一张沙发。”
The next day, we visited his studio and private residence, and were once again deeply attracted by this treasure designer. He shared, I am passionate about the way of constantly endowing space with new meanings as time goes by. For instance, nowadays we more frequently use restaurants as work areas rather than just for dinner. The kitchen seems to have transformed into a living room because we added a sofa.
这与我们的设计理念恰好吻合:房子是动态的,它能随着时间推移和人们生活方式的变化,持续地更新其内涵。
This is in perfect alignment with our design philosophy: a house is dynamic and can continuously update its connotation as time goes by and peoples lifestyles change.
在我们的设计探索中,我们始终坚持空间与自然的和谐共生,在居住者享受现代生活便捷的同时,也能体验到周围的自然环境。灵活的空间设计和布局,不仅满足当前的使用需求,也能随着时间的变化和居住者生活方式的演进而持续更新。
In our design exploration, we have always adhered to the harmonious coexistence of space and nature. While residents enjoy the convenience of modern life, they can also experience the surrounding natural environment. The flexible spatial design and layout not only meet the current usage requirements but also can be continuously updated over time and as the residents lifestyles evolve.
Hotel design is also a kind of local design expression
当地的生活方式、社交习惯、文化特色、审美观念和工艺手法,无不体现在本土酒店的设计之中,葡萄牙设计的独特魅力也在于其设计的在地性,基于对建筑与自然和谐相融的重视,酒店的设计风格因地理位置而异:Pousada Mosteiro de Amares保留了修道院的神圣感与沉静气质,The Rebello融合了很多当地的传统手工艺品,展现出折衷主义的包容,Pa.te.os则是将极简主义与旷野结合;
The local lifestyle, social habits, cultural characteristics, aesthetic concepts and craftsmanship are all reflected in the design of local hotels. The unique charm of Portuguese design also lies in its local nature. Based on the emphasis on the harmonious integration of architecture and nature, the design style of hotels varies with geographical location. Pousada Mosteiro de Amares retains The sanctity and serene temperament of the monastery. The Rebello integrates many local traditional handicrafts, demonstrating the inclusiveness of eclecticism. Pa.te.os combines minimalism with the wilderness.
Pousada Mosteiro de Amares 修道院
我最喜欢的还是Santa 1728,它位于里斯本老城区一角,由一座18世纪的宫殿精心改造而成,设计师保留了原有的石墙、拱窗等传统设计元素,同时又跳出思维定式,深刻思考城市生活对现代里斯本的意义。空间经过重新设计,赋予了恰当的比例、秩序与节奏,显得沉静而克制,仿佛是时间静止后的生活容器。
My favorite is still Santa 1728. It is located in a corner of the old town of Lisbon and was meticulously transformed from an 18th-century palace. The designer retained the traditional design elements such as the original stone walls and arched Windows, while also breaking away from conventional thinking and deeply pondering the significance of urban life to modern Lisbon. The space has been redesigned, endowing it with appropriate proportions, order and rhythm, appearing calm and restrained, as if it were a container of life after time had stood still.
奶油色、亚麻布与天然石材的搭配恰到好处,营造出一种真正的松弛与平静感,让人仿佛找到了理想的避风港。这或许便是家的真谛。在这一刻,新家的设计灵感如泉涌般在我的脑海中浮现。
The combination of cream color, linen and natural stone is just right, creating a true sense of relaxation and tranquility, making people feel as if they have found an ideal haven. Perhaps this is the true meaning of home. At this moment, the design inspiration for the new home gushed out in my mind like a spring.
Artists are also the continuation of vitality
旅途的中段,我们来到了木作艺术家Mircea Anghel的工作室。他从金融业跨界成为艺术家,将热爱转化为事业。未来,他更梦想成为一名船夫,并且已经着手建造自己的船只。我想他这种肆意洒脱的人生态度,正是他作品灵感的源泉之一。
In the middle of the journey, we arrived at the studio of woodwork artist Mircea Anghel. He crossed over from the financial industry to become an artist, transforming his passion into a career. In the future, he dreams even more of becoming a boatman and has already started to build his own ships. I think his unrestrained and carefree attitude towards life is one of the sources of inspiration for his works.
他的作品以自然界的形态、质感和故事为灵感来源,巧妙融合了自然材料的原始质感与手工艺的细腻精巧。丰富多元的人生经历,促使他深入探索现代设计与可持续发展的有机结合。
His works draw inspiration from the forms, textures and stories of nature, ingeniously blending the original texture of natural materials with the delicate and exquisite craftsmanship. His rich and diverse life experiences have prompted him to deeply explore the organic integration of modern design and sustainable development.
我想这也正是我们此次旅行的意义所在:去感受多元的地理人文,去探寻设计的更多可能性。
I think this is precisely the significance of our trip: to experience the diverse geography and culture, and to explore more possibilities of design.
Architecture and Geography and Humanities
贯穿旅程的还有Eduardo Souto de Moura的作品,他是继Alvaro Siza之后第二位获得普利兹克奖的葡萄牙建筑师。
Also running through the journey are the works of Eduardo Souto de Moura, who is the second Portuguese architect after Alvaro Siza to win the Pritzker Prize.
Ricardo Prata(Eduardo Souto de Moura的员工)
记忆尤深的当属他设计的Paula Rego美术馆,这一设计被认为是对历史主义的现代诠释,建筑线条简洁却不失力量,空间布局精妙,每一处细节都诉说着对艺术的尊崇,也诠释着建筑与人文的深度对话。
The most memorable one is the Paula Rego Art Museum he designed. This design is regarded as a modern interpretation of historicism. The architectural lines are simple yet powerful, and the spatial layout is exquisite. Every detail tells of his respect for art and also interprets the profound dialogue between architecture and humanity.
这趟旅程中最令人期待的无疑是与Alvaro Siza的交流。清晨,我们首先来到了Boa Nova海边茶室。这座茶室是Alvaro Siza在25岁时设计的杰作,也是他的成名之作。尽管距今已有60余年,但它依然充满现代感。这种与自然和谐共生、与时光共存的氛围,完美诠释了场地精神的纯粹。
The most anticipated part of this trip is undoubtedly the communication with Alvaro Siza. Early in the morning, we first arrived at the Boa Nova Seaside Tea House. This tea room was designed by Alvaro Siza when he was 25 years old and it was also his masterpiece that made him famous. Although it has been around for over 60 years, it still exudes a modern feel. This atmosphere of harmonious coexistence with nature and time perfectly interprets the purity of the venues spirit.
实地探访过他的建筑作品后,我们来到了他的办公室。沿着楼梯而上,穿过一段走廊,尽头映入眼帘的便是西扎的侧影。92岁高龄的他端坐在桌前,微微弓背,手中夹着一支烟,这一幕静谧而充满力量!
After visiting his architectural works on the spot, we came to his office. Climbing up the stairs and passing through a corridor, the profile of Siza comes into view at the end. At the age of 92, he sat upright at the table, slightly hunched his back, with a cigarette in his hand. This scene was quiet yet full of power!
我想所有人都会好奇他是如何保持创作热情的,老爷子幽默地回应到:“Keep smoking、keep drinking、keep living”。
I think everyone would be curious about how he maintains his creative enthusiasm. The old man responded humorously, Keep smoking, keep drinking, keep living.
这俏皮的语气,远比我们想象中更加天真有趣。他的笑容温暖而和煦,尽管存在语言障碍,但他所散发出的真诚与淡然,依然让我深刻感受到了他对设计的热爱与从容。
This playful tone is far more innocent and interesting than we could have imagined. His smile was warm and gentle. Despite the language barrier, the sincerity and calmness he exuded still made me deeply feel his love and composure for design.
建筑师 Alvaro Siza(左),西班牙建筑师 Javier Fabado(右)
这次与西扎的交流,对我来说是一次宝贵的经历。他不仅是一位杰出的建筑师,更是一位充满智慧和人生哲理的长者。
他的创作热情、对设计的执着追求,以及他与自然和谐共生的设计理念,无疑是对我们所有设计师的一种鼓舞和启示,也是我们设计路上的一座灯塔。
This communication with Siza was a valuable experience for me. He is not only an outstanding architect, but also an elder full of wisdom and life philosophy. His creative passion, his unwavering pursuit of design, and his design philosophy of harmonious coexistence with nature undoubtedly inspire and enlighten all of us designers, and also serve as a lighthouse on our design journey.
Alvaro Siza(左前)、Carlos Castanheira(左后)、印际-婷玉(右前)、尚壹扬设计创始人-谢柯(右中)、Matrix 矩阵设计联合创始人-刘建辉(右后)
在葡萄牙的每一寸土地上,艺术与设计如同呼吸般自然,它们融入了日常生活,成为了不可或缺的一部分。我们遇见的设计师和艺术家们,不仅创作出了令人叹为观止的作品,更重要的是,他们用自己的生活方式诠释了设计的真谛。
In every inch of Portugal, art and design are as natural as breathing. They are integrated into daily life and have become an indispensable part. The designers and artists we have met have not only created breathtaking works, but more importantly, they have interpreted the true meaning of design through their own lifestyles.
这趟葡萄牙之旅远超我的预期。旅程以沉浸式体验的方式展开,我们并非匆忙打卡,而是在一步步走访、对话、体验中,沉浸式感受葡萄牙设计的底蕴。
This trip to Portugal far exceeded my expectations. The journey began in an immersive experience. We did not rush to check in but instead, through step-by-step visits, conversations and experiences, we immersed ourselves in the essence of Portuguese design.
沿途不断邂逅令人惊喜的设计师与作品,循序渐进的节奏让我更深刻地理解了他们的创作初心。这也让我坚信,设计的最终价值不在于图纸,而在于我们如何将其融入生活。
我想,无论是否从事设计领域,这样的旅程都弥足珍贵。
Along the way, I kept encountering surprising designers and their works. The gradual pace enabled me to have a deeper understanding of their original creative intentions. This also convinces me that the ultimate value of design does not lie in the drawings, but in how we integrate it into our lives. I think, whether one is engaged in the field of design or not, such a journey is extremely precious.
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